(Russian River, Alaska)
The Summer Adventures of Steve & Sharon Russell; Part 4
June 24, 2008; Tuesday, Day 22
Can’t believe my sweetheart is getting up this early to go fishing. We had prepped the camper the night before to make this early morning as painless as possible. Stephen threw the pooches up into the bunk with me and they were thrilled! 0445 hours and Stephen was out the door with his gear and cooler, off to meet Bob and Arnie and the rest of the Ferry Landing fishers on the Russian River. He did state that the quantity of daylight, once he opened the camper door, was an assist in the very early morning rising.
The pups and I gratefully went back to sleep . . . the overcast nature of the skies, while not making the camper dark, was at least not blindingly bright. A few hours later we rose, did our morning routines and then set off to the Zortman camper to see if the gals were interested in a walk. Janice jumped at the opportunity so we headed back up the Burney Trail and to the lovely vista of both Hidden and Engineer Lakes. The pups were happy to be along and made Janice feel much more comfortable on our walk as she is fearful of all wild animals larger than the hares that abound in our campground.
The guys returned early afternoon (hunger apparently driving Bob and Arnie to want to return to the campsite). Stephen indicated that Bob had had several hookups but was unable to land any fish; Stephen himself had had a couple of pulls. Oh yes, and saw another bear – this one bigger than last evenings’!
Handsome indicated to me that this type of fishing isn’t much fun . . . its more like luck. You stand 10 to 15 feet from the next person, lining the Russian River. The water is very swift and one takes a 1 oz banana weight about 3 feet from your fly and ‘plunk’ . . . not cast . . . about 12 feet of fly line, the heavy leader with the weight and fly into the river and ‘pull’ it through the water. The idea is that you hope to irritate the salmon and hook them in the mouth when they snap at the fly. If successful you are rewarded with wonderful fresh Coho (Red) salmon.
The Russian River is so swift that a Ferry makes the roundtrip from 0600 hours to 2300 hours daily to get fishermen to the fishable side of the river. Cost is $10 for a roundtrip ferry ride (holds about 20 people) or $5 if you have a golden age passport (Parking is $10 or $5 Golden Age). The confluence is located just above the ferry crossing and is called The Sanctuary. Once the fish counts are high enough for spawning, the Fish and Game Department open the Sanctuary for fishing as well.
Bob Zortman’s younger brother Dave and his son Jesse arrived from Minnesota to join the fishing expedition for a week or so. They have a rental car and made a trip to Soldotna with the rest of the guys to hit the local Sporting Goods Store. Stephen showed great restraint in failing to purchase a rod and reel combination that was on sale and probably better suited for the type of fishing that we are doing.
The guys returned around 1600 hours, Stephen started our campfire (we collected wood from abandoned campsites rather than pay $6 a bundle), and took a short nap while I did the dinner prep. After fixing a highball Stephen grilled the veggies, beans and steaks. Dining outside was wonderful and the campfire added to the festivities.
Bob, Dave & Jesse arrived about 1800 hours to pick me up to go fishing at the Meat Market while Stephen stayed home with the pups. One of the ferry drivers will be going to the U of W after this summer to work on his Masters – small world as he really wanted to go to WSU! I was kept entertained the first hour by a couple of 2 year old Grizzly Bears that were on the opposite side of the river playing. Fish and Game came out with flares to try and give them a ‘bad’ taste of campgrounds and people. That maneuver succeeded in treeing the bears.
It’s amazing to see a large bear climbing a very tall evergreen tree, and easily reach heights 2/3 the length of the tree! Up and down the tree the bears climbed, finally coming down for good. A shotgun with rubber bullets was utilized to ‘scare’ them, followed up by flare pistols. After the bear show I concentrated on the plunking of fishing. I was stunned at how boring
this type of fishing is and how much luck is involved. I lost one weight and 3 flies to ‘rock fish’. Finally we pulled pitch about 2130 hours.
I arrived back to the camper with Stephen in shorts, bare-chested and in storm chaser shoes asking for a fishing report (apparently he had just finished his bath when we arrived which explains his attire!). He’d had a visit from Pat & Janice that evening and was busily laying out my bath – which was a delicious surprise for me - and the gals were complimentary . . . jealously informing their husbands that they had some work to do!
Once again whipped, I fell gratefully into bed. Weather was mostly sunny with cloud cover from 1100 hours to 1330 hours. Some light winds throughout the day – temps in the mid 50’s. No miles traveled today.
June 25, 2008, Wednesday, Day 23
Wow does 0400 come early, again! Stephen dressed, ate and then threw the pups up into the bunk with me which they were delighted with. Two days in a row . . . and they are feeling special! We of course went back to snoozing for a couple of hours before making our way out of bed to start the morning activities – walks, feeding pooches, campsite clean-up. This morning I’m doing a recount of charges so far this trip so that I can send some bills in for mailing with the Zortman’s tomorrow.
Janice and Arnie have a plane to catch Thursday a.m. back home to Minnesota. We’ve enjoyed spending time with them and Stephen has particularly enjoyed fishing with Arnie. Bob & Pat will make the run into Anchorage and the Airport, making a quick commissary run as well. The pooches and I made a late morning trip to the Zortman camper to howdy and make plans for tonight’s dinner.
The guys arrived back around noon . . . CSM having caught two Coho’s which we’ll be eating tonight in quesadillas. Stephen reported that lots of folks on either side of him were catching fish so he felt good about that and befriended a local native American named Ben who gave him some local knowledge on the length of line and fly to use. His second cast after that he had a hit!
The sun came back out after retreating around 1100 hours and Handsome caught 40 winks in his lounge chair while the pups rested and I dove back into my historical novel trilogy about Josephine Bonaparte. Late afternoon was a review of the billing work from this morning, giving the CSM fuel for his generator and making a smoked salmon and cream cheese dip. The pups fed and watered, Stephen cleaned up, and we headed to the Zortman’s for the evening. My dip and crackers were inhaled. The quesadilla was good but I requested a slab of salmon grilled . . . and then everyone else followed
suit. Butter, salt, and pepper and a couple hours freshly caught salmon . . . it was absolutely wonderful!
We ended the evening chatting, standing near the campfire and then saying farewell to Janice and Arnie. Another great Alaskan day. Weather was sunny with some cloud cover, turning cool and breezy from 1100 hours to about 1400 hours, then sun again. Temps mid 50’s. No miles traveled today.
June 26, 2008, Thursday, Day 24
Stephen left the camper again just a tad after 0430 hours to meet Jesse & David for the ride to the Ferry Landing. He mentioned as he was eating his cereal that he really needs to get to bed earlier to make these early morning rendezvous! As he left the pups and I heard the pitter patter for a few minutes of soft rain that soon passed.
During our morning constitutional we noted a newly posted bear sign indicating that a black bear had been sighted on our campground loop at 0730 this morning. Greeaaat; so think we’ll wait for Stephen to return this afternoon before we do our longer lake viewing walk. The final story on this bear is that he walked the entire campsite loop sauntering right past our camper and trailer . . . am glad we’re not in a tent as there were reports that he sniffed at tents!
Lots of household chores to do so this morning’s activities included airing out again (a daily occurrence when we are stationary) the pooch blankets and throw rugs. Taking advantage of the housekeeping mood I also cleaned the refrigerator and made preparations for tonight’s dinner which is Stephen’s famous hamburgers, Behler summer salad and chips. We are hosting.
The guys (Dave, Jesse & Stephen) make it back about 1400 hours with 6 salmon caught. Stephen had 3 also but had to release them. The guys brought their salmon to our site to use our vacuum pack and freeze salmon as Bob has all their tools with him in Anchorage. The payback is a couple of nice filets for our efforts. Stephen has had a great day although he’s a bit disappointed in not being able to keep his salmon.
Dinner and campfire are at 1800 hours. Bob heads out after dinner to go fishing while the guys hit the hay and we chat around the campfire. After cleanup and prep for the early morning coming soon, we sleep. Weather has been mostly sunny with some cloud cover, late afternoon breeze. Temps high 50’s. No miles traveled today.
June 27, 2008; Friday, Day 25
Will this early morning rising never end? At least the pups and I get to return to sleep – don’t know how Stephen is maintaining in spite of daily afternoon naps. It’s a cloudy day with intermittent rain so my airing out of bedding lasts only the morning. Bob came back about 1030 hours having broken his rod and seeking a replacement. Pat and I sent lunch as we await a vehicle so we can head to Soldotna to do much needed laundry.
After our (pups and my) morning walks and conversations with the various neighbors, I set to the task of squeezing fresh key limes (can you believe there is no key lime juice in this state!!!) for the long promised key lime pie I’m serving this evening. After an hour of rolling, picking seeds and squeezing I have the requisite ½ cup of juice and complete the pie. I washed my hair in the camper after dish clean up – feels so wonderful! Now if I could just have a full length shower instead of the nice daily Army Baths.
It’s the weekend so the campsite is filling up as the locals leave work to fish for the weekend in hopes of catching the ‘reds’. The guys finally return at 1430 hours. Stephen caught a big Red keeper!; lost several others or had to turn them back (not properly hooked); so all in all a good day. After vacuum packing the fish it’s to the freezer and nap time for Stephen and the pooches. Pat and I are now determined to manhandle a vehicle so we can do our laundry & shopping tomorrow as it’s now too late to go to Soldotna.
Lessons Learned: The best way to run the generator from a freezing standpoint is an hour in the morning and then 2 to 3 hours in the late afternoon to evening. The deciding factors have to do with you needing to freeze fresh fish or just maintain the temperature of the freezer.
The pups and I gathered some firewood, Stephen did some bow sawing of downed trees and then it was time for red beans and rice at the Zortman’s. The key lime pie was a success and so was the fire at the Russell campsite. I fell and jammed my right knee while walking mid evening, the pups coming to my rescue to see if I was okay. I chatted with two couples from Germany (Dusseldorf and Munchen), while swatting the pesky mosquitoes with both hands. The couples were most interested in American politics, the upcoming presidential election and especially my opinion of “Baby Bush”. Overall weather was cool, rain off and on all day, bursts of wind throughout the day; high was 55F.
June 28, 2008; Saturday (Day 26)
A couple of large moans woke me during the night . . . and they were my own. Guess I banged up my knee a bit more than I’d thought. Limping to Pat’s truck at 0715 hours with laundry and shower supplies, I was asked what in the heck happened to me! Fortunately I grabbed an ice bag on my way out the door and the cold felt great against my knee as we drove to Soldotna. Perhaps having sympathy pains with sister Mari Kay & her recent surgery?
Laundry festivities began about 0830 with washers going for $2.50 a load and the dryers for $0.25 per 7 minute increment. While my clothes were washing, I paid $5 to have a shower at the same facility. Unfortunately I didn’t realize that wifi was available at the laundry or would have downloaded and sent emails . . . well next time! Four loads later, body clean, and some phone calls made, Pat and I headed to Fred Meyers for Rx drop off. Since the Rx will have to be called in to hometown pharmacies, we have a 24 hour wait for pick-up.
We were starving! A passerby suggested that we head to Buckets of Grub for breakfast/lunch. We just missed breakfast ordering but not the great looking breakfast plates being served to other customers. Having to settle
for lunch we both ordered halibut fish and chips. It was wonderful and the fries are probably the best I’ve ever eaten. Good tartar as well! An added bonus was that Fox News was playing on the big screen – even though muted Pat and I were getting a bit of a ‘News’ Fix.
We finished our shopping run at Fred Meyers and ‘mostly’ met our shopping needs. We were amazed at the time as we arrived back ‘home’ about 1330 hours – we were sure quick and lucky with the laundry timing! Stephen had had a great morning/early afternoon with just luxuriating about not being up at 0400 hours . . . walking the pups, reading, and doing some campsite chores. He deserved the break!
I stowed groceries, made the broccoli salad and at 1800 hours we walked to the Zortmans. Dinner was grilled fresh salmon, corn on the cob grilled over the fire and of course the salad which was instantly gone! Strawberry shortcake and coffee for dessert next to the blazing campfire. The pooches had been invited so they were thrilled; especially with the BIG bones that Dave and Jesse bought for them.
Weather was mostly cloudy with rain on the highway; some breeze and the sun peeking out intermittently. High was 52F.
June 29, 2008; Monday; Day 27
Oh Stephen you are a prince! Arising at 0400 hours again to bring home the Reds for us. The pups and I gratefully go back to sleep after making sure Dad gets out the door and equally grateful that we don’t have to put up with this awful type of fishing in order to catch these great tasting salmon.
Our morning routine is broken to make a banana cream pie since our bananas are waning. The weather is mostly sunny with no wind and intermittent light rain. We’ve decided that we’ll remain in this area for at least a couple more days to catch some more Reds (that would be Stephen’s job!). Meanwhile the Zortman crew is headed to Anchor Point to catch a halibut charter. We saw them all off at about 1400 hours this afternoon and look forward to reconnecting with them at a later date.
Lessons Learned. We’ve noticed with sadness that some sportsmen’s fishing habits are in neither our, nor most folks best interests. Stephen refers to them as meat hunters. They complain when the fishing is slow (which gets old after a while) rather than enjoying the process of fishing itself and the beauty of the surroundings. Perhaps we’ve been spoiled with catch and release fishing too long rather than catch and kill. So we plan to enjoy the fisherperson’s in this area whose attitude is more in tune with ours and hopefully continue to fill our freezer.
Stephen and Jesse decided to catch up on some sleep while Ruger and I headed up the road to look for a cell phone signal. We walked uphill for over 3 miles in serious bear country before we finally got enough signal and were able to connect with darling Linda “Stutzy”, getting caught up until my battery died mid-sentence. Guess it helps to plug in the phones while the generator is running!
Stephen made a nice campfire which prevailed in spite of our late afternoon rain. Dinner was a one skillet but yummy affair made better with the dessert. A final walk and we are all headed to bed, our novels and sleep!
Weather was mostly cloudy, lots of intermittent rain squalls; no breeze and an abundance of mosquitoes until late afternoon. High was mid 50’s.
June 30, 2008; Tuesday; Day 28
We slept in . . . until 0800 hours . . . heaven! The pooches even snored and stayed abed late! We did a bit of camp chores and decided about 1130 hours that we were going to head into Soldatna to try and work of a long list of things to do! The morning had been intermittent cloud with spits of rain – something new and different – Ha Ha!
Our first stop was Buckets for lunch and what we later found was a wifi spot; so out came the computer for a few hasty downloads. We lost the signal twice which means that all 160+ emails had to be retransmitted, even if many had already downloaded once. Forwarded mail is especially challenging and something we dread. After a wonderful lunch of halibut sandwiches and beer battered fries, we were off to Kenai in search of the Dodge dealer. We found it! Dark lobby, brochures, phones and desks
everywhere with a sign that said, ‘closed until further notice’. Okay, scratch getting a 2009 brochure. Meanwhile our Spokane Dodge dealer is working to see if we can deal on a ‘duelie’ which would be a much more stable platform for us with our camper & hauling. It’s all about dollars & rebates of course.
We located the local Sportsman’s Store where we spent an hour gathering everything from alarm clocks to fishing gear. A gentleman named Dick whom was selling $100 raffle tickets and a native of 12 years (after leaving the rat race of a career in D.C.) was a wealth of information regarding fishing in this area. Stephen purchased an Alaskan ‘bonker’ & we were off to the Napa store for generator oil; Amerigas for propane and Fred Meyers for Rx’s and a couple of fresh food items.
The afternoon flew by with the sun making a nice afternoon appearance. It was 1745 before we knew it, so we headed back to the Russian River Ferry Landing, got Stephen suited up and out to fish. The pups and I drove to the campsite, started the generator then walked over to see camp hosts Ron & Naomi to chat for a few minutes. The big news was the two sows, each with twin cubs that had roamed the campground around 1330 hours. Apparently some tent campers had left food out in coolers, were taking a siesta and viola’! Mama Bear treed her cubs and invited herself to snack. The other Sow & her cubs ‘heard’ about the snacks and were enroute. The Rangers dispatched the bears with flares.
Shutting down the generator, we headed back to the Ferry Landing at 2100 (where we are spending the night) to see how Stephen fared. He had two on but in his excitement failed to double pump them – but still had a good evening of fishing. When leaving Hidden Lakes Campground I saw a Mama Moose & her baby; grabbed the camera, threw the lens cap but the diesel engine was too loud and spooked her before I could get close enough for a good shot. All in all, it was a great wildlife day! Highs in the low 60’s.
July 1, 2008; Tuesday, Day 29 (Sis Nancy’s Birthday)
Had a miserable night trying to sleep due to some sort of left upper back/neck strain that took root yesterday mid-afternoon. Ibuprofen and ice seem to give some relief. Stephen was up at 0500 hours – getting a full hours extra sleep due to our camping at the ferry site. He caught a very large Red at 0630 hours and when sighting us at about 0900, decided to call
it a morning. Of course the fact that the fishing had slowed due to the bright sun on the water may have had something to do with it also!
After processing the fish, we drove back to the campsite and relocated to a different site at Hidden Lakes, which we actually preferred as it’s not quite as noisy. Stephen grabbed 40 winks while the pups and I sat in the nice, warm, bright sun (not a cloud in the sky) and read the local Anchorage paper. After reading it from tip to stern, am not any more aware of news events than prior to reading the newspaper!
We’ve had mostly a lazy afternoon here at site 15, enjoying the full glory of the heat of the sun and the promise of high’s in the high 60’s today. It seems a great way to celebrate Nancy’s birthday from afar; walks with the pups, reading in the sunlight and eating outdoors.
The campsite is filling up early this week – usually the crowd starts in late Thursday afternoon, stay the weekend and the campgrounds are mostly empty by noon on Sunday. Stephen & I realized after some pondering that this is the 4th of July weekend so may folks are making a week of it. The sounds of laughter from kids playing and riding bikes are great and the pups remain a campsite favorite.
The flora and fauna are changing as the summer gets in full gear. Gone are the dandelions, the wild purple iris are waning and in their place are the wild hyacinths. The pretty pink ‘Rose of Sharon” looking bushes are in full bloom and a fern that looks similar to small pine trees abound. The cottonwood trees seem to be in their second molt in 2 weeks . . . turning the sides of the roads white with the accumulated ‘fuzz’. Lots of folks sneezing and swatting at ‘white’ mosquitoes until realizing their error! The black flies are beginning to make an appearance and the mosquito populations continue to grow. Bug Sprays and the wind are the effective anti-bug retardants. The nighttime lightness is easing somewhat but definitely window coverings while sleeping are still a necessity, and will be so I fear for several weeks to come.
SIDEBARS:
- A unique feature adorns many homes in the Kenai, known as a Cache House; it’s a very small miniature home on stilts (looks like a small child’s playhouse). The purpose of the house is to store frozen meat in the winter . . . and keep it away from the bears.
- ‘DA BONKER’. “Made in Alaska from kiln dried birch in the middle of winter to keep from going nuts! Ideal for quickly dispatching salmon, halibut, cod, large trout . . . & other deserving bonkees.” – Papa Wood.
- Soldotna is a bustling little town that just a few short years ago (mid 1990’s) was a fish camp and whistle stop. Its roots are founded by the Russian name ‘soldier’ and the fact that after WWII, Veterans were the preferred recipients of Land Grants to settle this area. Recently this area has boomed as Alaskan’s and visitors alike have made the Kenai its summer outdoor playground.
- ATM’s (aka 4 wheelers) are a popular mode of travel over the rough terrain associated with this area. It’s interesting to see that between smaller communities there are often trails that parallel the highways that are designed for the ATM’s.
- We continue to be amazed and appreciate the patriotism and the gratitude shown by this state to its military. Everywhere you will find roads, bridges, creeks, streams, parks, railroads and rivers named for Veterans. Some individuals are recognized but you will uniquely note that often the historical significance has to do with cultural richness of this country. For example you’ll find, ‘Black Veteran’s of WWII; or Native Alaskan’s Bridge; or All American Vet Park.” The list is endless and wondrous. These folks understand how many individuals gave so much for their state . . . and the USA. Lessons learned.
